Feathered Star QAL: Week Four

Hellllllllllllo, Club 129! How is it going?

Another week down! In the first three weeks, we've made four 16" and two 12" No Y Seam Feathered Star blocks.

Here are the details if you're just now joining us:

Week One

Week Two

Week Three

This week we are taking a little bit of a departure. We will each become a well-oiled HST-making machine!

Go ahead and cut everything in the Borders & Bonus Stars cutting section, even though we will not use all of the fabrics this week. If you've printed the the Feathered Star QAL pattern, you can find the cutting details on p. 5.

As for the sewing assignments this week, the first is to complete the instructions on the bottom of p. 8 under the Inner borders section. Don't worry, it's two tiny seams and some trimming. Piece of cake!

Job #2 for Week Four is to complete the HST assembly steps on p. 9. That's significantly more work! In fact, it's the bulk of this week's work.

We will be using the Magic 8 method for making half-square triangles as detailed in the pattern. I just wanted to mention here that the HSTs are intended to be a little oversized and trimmed down to exact specifications.

As you're sewing the larger squares together, try to align the outer edges as best as possible, but don't worry if they end up like the next photo. I don't pin the squares together or go to any other heroic measures, the trimming step will make them perfect!

I set my stitch length is a little shorter (2.2) than what I normally use to discourage unraveling after all the cuts are made.

Stacks on stacks!

The third and final part of Week Four is to construct the pieced borders according to the instructions on p. 10 of the Feathered Star QAL pattern.

I also want to look ahead to next week - July 23. We will be taking a one-week intermission to give everyone a chance to catch up. I wanted to mention that now in case you'd like to spread the HST and border-making jobs out over the next two weeks.

Week Five instructions will resume on July 30.

Join our Facebook group to connect with other QAL participants!

Feathered Star QAL: Week Three

12" No Y Seam Feathered Star

Thank you Club 129 for your input last week! I asked in the weekly QAL email that went out what blocks you wanted to work on next.

I'll be honest, when I penciled in the calendar for the QAL, I planned on doing ALL the foundation paper piecing blocks first. Because I have to kind of switch my brain to get into "paper piecing mode" and gather the appropriate tools, I thought it would be more efficient to make the similarly constructed blocks in batches instead of switching back and forth from paper piecing to regular piecing.

Either you all REALLY like paper piecing, you see the "wisdom" in batching, or you are nervous about the upcoming Fierce Feathered Star blocks, the clear majority want to continue paper piecing!

Your Week Three challenge is to make two 12" No Y Seam Feathered Star blocks! 

In the whole quilt top, there are only two 12" NYSFS blocks, so when you are printing the templates, you'll need two copies of each page (print pages 29-33 of the PDF BUNDLE or pages 11-15 from the single NYSFS pattern PDF).

Cut templates apart and cut fabrics* according to pattern.

*As the blocks get smaller, the less excess fabric you'll have according to the pre-cutting instructions. If you've had trouble aligning your pieces when making the 16" stars, you might want to cut larger pieces to give yourself more margin. The big exception to this is if you are working with the fabric kit. The white fabric pieces need to be cut exactly as stated because there isn't a lot of extra fabric (my fault) and I'd hate for you to run out! You don't have to be careful with the other fabric amounts for this star, so even if you have the kit, you can still cut the other fabrics larger to give yourself more room. 

For more information on fabric kit cutting, read this: Week One (first few paragraphs of the linked post). 

By now, you are a PRO at constructing the No Y Seam Feathered Star blocks! The 12" blocks go together in the same way as the 16" blocks. 

Remember to remove your papers when you are done and refer to the QAL pattern to see how the sashing strips need to be sewn to the 12" blocks.

I hope you're all experiencing the excitement of having the 129 fabric pieces come together to form each star! I'll leave you with Chris Simon's 16" stars! Check out more from Chris over on her inspiring Instagram profile @thecolorfulom.

Have a great week! Don't forget to join our Facebook group here: Friends of Threaded Quilting Studio.

Feathered Star QAL: Week Two

Week Two will be a repeat of Week One: two 16" No Y Seam Feathered Stars

#ClubOneTwoNine! How are you doing!? 

Of all the stars in our sky–I mean quilt top–I think that the 16" No Y Seam Feathered Star is the easiest one to complete. 

To ease us into the QAL and to give those who are starting late an easier time of catching up, Week Two will be about completing the last two 16" NYSFS blocks needed for the twin quilt top. If you did your printing, cutting, and prepping last week, this week should take less time! If you haven't yet made the first two blocks, check out the Week One post for lots of tips!

This is a heads up if you're looking ahead to the other sizes of paper piecing stars: the difficulty increases the smaller the pieces get. If you have the extra fabric available, you may want to pre-cut the pieces a little larger than what I recommend in the pattern, especially if you have trouble getting them aligned. I'll talk about that more in the weeks to come, but wanted to mention it now if you are thinking about working ahead.

The final part of making this block for the QAL is sewing the sashing strips onto certain sides of the blocks as detailed in the pattern. Make sure that between Week One and Week Two, you have the correct number of blocks with the appropriate strips sewn to each.

When sewing the sashing strips into place, I find it most helpful to sew with the back side of the star on top and the sashing strip on bottom, that way you can prevent seams from being turned. And always pin! At first glance, I find that there is usually a slight difference in the length of the strips compared to the length of the blocks. I pin at both ends first, then in the middle, and then I ease the rest of the fabric in by pinning at regular intervals. Sew and then press (I've been pressing these seams open, but do whatever makes you comfortable). 

It has been an absolute joy to see these stars coming to life in your very capable hands! I'll leave you with this photo of Doris Brunnette's blocks (check out the fussy cutting!), but if you'd like to see more, come join us in our Facebook group! For even more photos, check out the #featheredstarqal hashtag on Instagram.

I've also started a Pinterest board to which I will be pinning QAL inspiration!

Made by Doris Brunnette.

Feathered Star QAL: Week One

This is the 16" No Y Seam Feathered Star. We'll make two for Week One!

PLEASE NOTE: If you bought the kit or bought yardages specifically based on my original yardage requirements, I would like you to cut all of the White and Chartreuse fabrics (or their equivalents) before we start. I've written a sequencing suggestion with diagrams to ensure you get the most out of your fabric.  Please measure twice and cut once, as they say!

To be transparent: I used EQ7 estimates for the fabric yardage because I've known them in the past to be generous. They mostly were generous, except for the White (2.25 yards) and Chartreuse (.75 yard) quantities. It might be the construction techniques I use in the pattern, but as I cut my way through the whole quilt, I would have preferred extra fabric to account for any cutting errors. I have since changed the requirements in the pattern and online. 

*****

We've FINALLY arrived! Week One is here!

Week One is all about getting our feet wet with the 16" No Y Seam Feathered Star block. We will be making a total of four for this quilt, but let's just focus on two this week.

Let's begin, shall we?!

Printing: You'll need to print the paper piecing sections onto your preferred foundation paper. I use regular printer paper, but please use what you're most comfortable with. The most important thing to remember is to print at 100% or "actual" size, making sure your print dialog box is not set to auto-scale. A test square of 1 inch is provided on every page so that you can ensure accuracy.

If you bought the PDF bundle, print pages 34-39 of the PDF if you haven't already. You'll need 4 copies of each page total. 

If you're working from the No Y Seam Feathered Star PDF (original, not bundled), it's pages 16-21 of the PDF even though the page numbers at the bottom of each page are 15-20 (the cover page isn't numbered). You'll need 4 copies.

Even though we'll only be working on 2 of the blocks this week, I find it easier to print all the copies for the 16" block at once.

TIP! If all of your blocks will have the same coloring (like mine will), you may want to print one set, note the colors on each section and then make 3 copies.

TIP! Using a marker or colored pencil to note the section also works well (not really applicable before making copies unless you're using a color copier).

Cutting unit templates: To efficiently cut the templates apart, I stack all of the same pages together (add staples if you prefer, I don't find it necessary) and cut through the 4 pages at once. I like to use a dull rotary cutter that I've set aside for paper use to do the cutting. Make sure to cut outside of the dashed line. The space between the solid line and the dashed line is the seam allowance. Once all units are cut out, separate half (two complete sets: Units A-U) to be used this week.

Cutting fabrics:  I've written the cutting instructions by block so as to not overwhelm you with ALLLLLLL of the fabric cutting at once. I want to get to the fun sewing part, too!

On page 3 of the Feathered Star QAL pattern, the instructions include quantities for FOUR stars, so cut them all, and then set half of each quantity aside for next week. Yes, that's a spoiler, we'll be working on the last two 16" stars for Week Two. :)

Note: I'm working with two shades of gray. Shadow is the lighter shade of gray and used in the background (including the first triangle pieces adjacent to the "star tips", positioned toward the perimeter of the block i.e., pieces A1, B1, C1, D1, E1, F1, G1, H1). This is a slightly different coloring scheme than what is written in the NYSFS pattern where all the background spines are the same color. In this QAL, I have white as being my main background spine color that contours the star points. Iron is the darker gray color and is used for the spines and centers of this 16" block.

There are a few square sizes that are very similar, it might help to label them. For example, the 5" Shadow squares will be used with Units R-U and the 5.5" Shadow squares will be used with Units A-D. Do what you need to do to keep your pieces organized. 

Sewing: If you've never foundation paper pieced before, I highly encourage you to watch my video tutorial series that will show you step-by-step how to complete this pattern. If this ain't your first paper piecing rodeo...  well, giddyup! ;) You should be just fine following the instructions in the pattern.

USE A SHORTENED STITCH LENGTH! Sorry to shout, but this is important. I'm using a 1.2 stitch length which is tiny, tiny, tiny. Anything 1.5 or smaller is okay. I'm also using the aforementioned regular copy paper which is kind of thick. I also use a strong poly thread, so I don't have thread breakage issues, and I use a 90/14 Microtex needle from Schmetz. Feel free to adjust any of these factors until you're happy with sewing and how the papers tear away.

Does your sewing machine have a thread cutting feature or button? If it functions properly: USE IT!!! I paper pieced for years before I started actually using mine and it was a game changer! The nature of paper piecing is sewing a bunch of small lines, starting and stopping frequently. You could chain some pieces together, but it's a little awkward. When you use the thread cutter, you don't have to hold your threads as you begin the next seam. That is a wonderful thing! You'll end up using less thread, too.

I could stop now and say "Go for it!", but... I want to do everything to make this super-enjoyable for you so I took photos (captioned for your pleasure) as I was sewing my test block together to illustrate a few other tips and/or reminders. 

While it doesn't really matter which order you sew all of the units (21 total), if you're just getting back into the groove of paper piecing, you may want to start with Unit I (as in igloo) shown in the next photo.

I used a dab of fabric glue to secure the 5" center square positioned in the center of the template, covering the seam allowances on all sides (it's tight so if you're slightly short, don't worry, it's going to be fiiiiiiine). Place your folding aid (an expired insurance card here) along one seaming line, fold the paper back , align the Add-A-Quarter ruler and trim before adding your triangle accent pieces (in Chartreuse for my block). It makes the alignment of the triangles a bit easier.

When aligning a triangle piece along its bias side as illustrated here, imagine a straight line traveling from the corner of the area you will be covering, with the right angle of the triangle you're adding, like shown above. Use this technique with all applicable units.

Unit A (but this applies to all units that have pieces adjoining on 2 sides). Try not to stitch into section A8 (where my stiletto is pointing) because it'll affect how you fold and trim when the time comes to add the fabric for A8.

BEWARE! Avoid lining up fabrics as shown above. This is Unit A, but it applies to most units. When adding a lighter fabric, make sure that it completely covers the dark piece beneath. Otherwise, you'll get shadowing (dark fabric in the seam allowance is visible from the quilt top through the light fabric). If the piece shifts while you sew and you do experience shadowing: Before sewing the next piece, carefully trim small amounts of the dark fabric away until it no longer extends beyond the lighter fabric on top.

YES! This is the same piece from the previous photo sewn successfully. This is what you want. :)

When I'm piecing spines, I think in terms of covering the "upright" triangle (outlined in red dashed lines). I make sure the new triangle is "leg-down". Also, it's important to note that I'm making sure I cover the 1/4" seam allowance on both the right (unmarked) and left side of this spine.

Once it's sewn in place and finger-pressed, you can see how it's in perfect position. In other news, I MADE A GIF! :)

Once all units are sewn, they'll need to be seamed together. Refer to the diagram in the pattern to arrange and seam the pieces together. 

PIN!

Assembling sections: Pinning is important, if you're into accuracy. There's no other way around it. I've made sooooooooo many stars over the years and I still pin (a lot) every time. I promise it's worth it. Adequate pinning can make ALL the difference in not having to unpick seams. And let me tell you: It's not fun to unpick stitches sewn at a 1.2 length!

I start pinning at the point-matching places from one unit to the next. There is also a photo of what my pinning looks like in the pattern. I run a straight pin on and through the solid, black seaming line of one unit and match it up at the exact point on the other unit. I'll match several pins running straight through the pieces before I'll readjust them in order to sew.

Alright, this makes more sense watching it, so here's a very quick video showing what I mean. And, because I'm great at GIFs now! ;)

If you'd like to see the regular speed version of this along with the verbal play-by-play, check out this video (at the 2:25 mark).

Removing papers: I used to wait until a top was all assembled before removing papers because I liked using the solid black lines to expertly assemble a whole quilt top in the most precise manner. But now, I trust in the accuracy of my 1/4" seam allowance without having to sew on the line and papers are a lot easier to remove in a 8", 12" and 16" square rather than having the weight and bulk of a whole twin-sized top in your lap. So go ahead and remove your papers after you complete each block, I think you'll be glad you did!

Press: After papers are removed, give each block a good pressing. I tend to let the seams fall to the side they want to go. 

Then follow the instruction in the QAL pattern for adding sashing strips. I don't want to give all of my intellectual property away as far as how all of the stars are going to fit together, I respect those of you who have purchased the pattern too much to give everything away for free! :)

Hop on over to my closed Facebook group to join the discussion, share pictures, ask questions, get encouragement. We are a community and we'd love to help you out!

Feathered Star fabric selection

Here are the fabrics I'm using. They're all Kona Cotton Solids from Robert Kaufman (with a wide back from the Doe collection in the background).

It's about that time! It's time to start selecting fabrics for the upcoming Feathered Star QAL, if you haven't already. Find yardage requirements here.

First and foremost, I have to disclose that I'm a solids lover. I tend to gravitate to solids for many projects, not just feathered stars. I'm not exactly sure why this is... it feels like solid colors are easier for me to work with, but I don't think that's always been the case. Part of it is the longarm quilter in me (read: overquilter) who loves when her stitches SHOW. I know there is an appeal in solids not masking those quilting designs.

Another benefit of working with solids as it relates to paper piecing: you can't accidentally sew the wrong side! This isn't such a drawback to the experienced foundation paper piecer, but when a person it just learning, it's one more consideration that needs to be made.

Okay, phew! Now that I've written some of my reasons for choosing solids, it all seems a little better founded than just selecting solids on a whim.

But my goodness, there have been AMAZING feathered stars made from non-solid fabrics. Which brings me to a major downside of using solids: not using the fantastic, cute-as-can-be printed and designer fabrics that are oh-so easy to come by in our local quilt shops!

Check out this link to other feathered stars. Note to yourself what strikes you as being successful (or less so). Personally, I've found that strong contrast appeals to me. 

Here's a star I made a year an a half ago. It was a slight departure from the No Y Seam Feathered Star, but I think it'll help to illustrate my point.

I attempted to have a "matchy" center. When I had my pieces sewn together, I pretty much hated it. There was not enough contrast and with the center square being the only printed fabric... well, I think it fell flat.

I decided to un-sew the center and tried a solid fabric with more contrast.

In my opinion, the second attempt is WORLDS better. I ended up setting this star on-point to make a wall hanging:

Ooops! I used all solids again. :)

Here is one more example from my checkered feathered star past. (Ha!)

I use this example not in a "what not to do" sense, but in a way of preference. I actually like this block, and it gives me a chance to point out some other things to think about when you're choosing fabric for your feathered stars.

Contrast:

This block has contrast AND it has a "softer" feel to it. The star center, star tips, and capstone squares (my lingo, I don't know if these have proper terms) in teal have great contrast. They really jump out against the background and other star components.

The spines and the "star point" fabric are prints with similar tones to the background fabric. That's what gives it the softer feel.  They are not well defined against each other, which brings me to...

Scale and size:

The spines are in a medium-scale print. The star shown above is an 8" block, so the spines are tiny! Any medium- or large-scale print that gets cut up into a 1.5" square and then cut in half diagonally is not going to retain the overall look of the print. But they can still be fun and pleasing to the eye!  

Direction:

When studying the block above, I want to draw attention to the fact that two of the print fabrics are directional. Can you spot them? The background print–while it is small in scale–is also directional. Let your eye travel around the perimeter of the block to see how the direction of the tiny triangles in the print change. The other directional print is in the star points. It's a subtle print with series of lines. Generally speaking, when lines are involved, there's a good chance the print is directional. 

As you can see, it wasn't important to me that all the directional prints were going the same way. Just like all the other considerations I've mentioned using fabric, these aren't a list of do's and don'ts, they are things of which to be aware.

Fussy cutting:

I speak with absolutely no authority on fussy cutting. HA! At least I can tell you when I have a blind spot. :) I just know it can be done. At this point in my life, I have no interest in it, but then when I see fussy cutting perfectly executed, I think it's the most amazing thing ever! The centers of these feathered stars make for a great opportunity to showcase a special fabric in a really special way.

My last tip on this subject is to use the Recolor app to test out your fabrics (colors) and contrast before you commit to them IRL. I've written about using the free app here. I still think that it's such a fantastic tool!

Also, if you have purchased the Feathered Star QAL, send me an email or get in touch with me on social media and I will send you the coloring page file for the whole quilt layout! Or you can find the single feathered star coloring pages on either the NYSFS or Fierce Feathered Star pattern listings.

Feathered Star QAL pattern is now available

It's ready for you! Summer challenge, anyone? :)

We're closer to beginning the Feathered Star QAL (June 25th)!  As I was testing the pattern and getting it ready for you, I fell in love with the fabric combinations! It's one thing to design on the computer and a completely different thing to see a design come to life in person. I love the whole process of designing and quilting, but that is one of the best feelings! 

Fabric Shack is still selling kits of the exact fabrics that I'm using in my quilt. You can check out that deal here. The whole quilt top + binding fabrics for $68?! Yes, please!

Do you own the Fierce Feathered Star pattern? It's the one with large 20" & 36" stars. If you do not have this pattern already, you'll need to buy this bundle for the QAL:

If you have already purchased the Fierce Feathered Star block pattern, all you'll need is this pattern for the actual twin sized quilt top:

I realize that having different options can get confusing, but it was important to me to honor those who had already paid for the Fierce Feathered Star block pattern and not make them pay for it twice.

Email me at threadedquilting@gmail.com if you have any questions about which you should buy if you are interested in quilting along with us! 

Watch this space for more as the QAL unfolds. I'll just say this, too, if you like the pattern but know you won't be able to commit to a 9-week project (I get it!), the patterns give you everything you'll need to QBY (Quilt-By-Yourself). HA! I just made that up, but it's true. :)